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Extra 12V outlet with delayed cut off

by on Mar.03, 2013, under Technology

This post deals with wireless network (WLAN or wifi) in Volvo XC70 MY13 and may be applicable to other Volvo models and model years as well. Keep reading…

Our Volvo XC70 has three power outlets (12VDC): one on the dash, one in the backseat and one in the trunk. They are wired differently. The one in the trunk is always live (even if the car is locked) while the other two are wired with the ignition. One of the best investments I have made so far in my life are the twin DVD-players with 7″ screens from NextBase that I installed for the girls in the backseat. Makes longer journeys all that much more delightful; from a nightmare to enjoyable for $550.

The problem with a rear seat entertainment system that is wired to the ignition is obvious. In order to be able to open the gas cap the engine needs to be switched off and if the engine is switched off then so is the ignition. So stopping for gas means an unwanted (for everyone involved) break in the current Disney feature. Another and more immediate problem is that the power plug to the RSE system builds more than an inch from the outlet. It’s only a question of time before the girls step on it while climbing around in the backseat like kids their age normally do, yielding an urgent need for a replacement cable at $45.

Following Camel’s hints, the problem is now solved by wiring a 30A relay to the trunk power outlet and controlling this relay with current from the trunk courtesy light. It turns out that this light is on for two minutes after the car is locked and for 30 minutes if the car is unlocked, so there is no chance that the new RSE wiring will drain the battery. By adding an additional power outlet controlled by this relay next to the trunk power outlet and by pulling a new cable with an outlet in the end to the center console between the front seats (there’s plenty of room behind the panel in front of the gear level), the RSE is powered from that outlet instead of the one in the backseat. Works like a charm. The RSE is still powered when the ignition is off, meaning the girls can continue watching their film. Component list and instructions below. The optional extra power outlet next to the stock outlet may come in handy for other applications (continue reading…)


From your local supplier, pick up the following:

  • Cable, red, 1mm2, about 2m/6ft long
  • 12V extension cord with power outlet in one end, about 3m/9ft long (39-058)
  • 30A car relay w/ connections 30/51, 85, 86, 87 and 87a (36-112)
  • Bridge rectifier (diode bridge) of, say, 100V 25A (90-054)
  • Line fuse holder for 6.3x32mm glass fuses (or any other dimension that is easily available for you) (39-802)
  • Two 6.3x32mm glass fuses of 500mA (fast) (41-110)
  • Three branchers (67-245)
  • 12V power outlet (39-090)

Part numbers from Kjell & Co, Sweden’s own RadioShack, for easy reference. Total cost for the above parts should amount to about $25. You will also need tape, bundle ties, terminal connectors and your usual set of tools.

A brancher looks like this:

Attach the rectifier, relay and 12V power outlet to eachother to make it more manageable as one unit. I used epoxy glue. Bundle ties or even tape will probably do too, but you might aswell do things properly. Wire everything according to the diagram below, but save the connection to the existing trunk power outlet and the wire from the courtesy light until later.

For correct panel dismounts and (later) re-mounts, the official Volvo installation instructions for the luggage compartment power outlet are very handy. This outlet is standard on the XC70 but option on the cheaper V70 models (hence the instructions). They are available from Volvo here. Print a copy and keep as reference for all work on the panels in this guide.

Unlock the car and make sure all doors are open. Disconnect the car’s battery. This is important. Do not leave this step out. See the instruction manual for details, but essentially this step consists of opening the hood, removing the black plastic battery cover closest to the windscreen (it’s in two parts, one front and one rear – you want to remove the rear part), and fully disconnecting the minus cable from the battery. Make sure it’s removed properly and that it doesn’t tend to slide back towards the terminal on the battery.

Using your pocket knife, carefully remove the trunk courtesy light from the top panel. It will pop right out. You’ll find one white/blue and one blue/black wire behind it. Wire the line fuse holder to the white/blue wire using one of the branchers. Seal the brancher tightly and tape it. Also tape all wires before and after the brancher. Put one of the two fuses in the fuse holder and tape the other one to the fuse holder (according to Murphy’s Law, there will not be any spare fuses within a 100 mile radius if the fuse pops). Connect the 2m/6ft red cable to the other end of the fuse holder and detach the panels according to the Volvo instructions so that you are able to wire the red cable down along the right D-column. It’s easier than it appears and depending on how picky you are you may not even have to remove all panels mentioned in the instructions.

Remove the panels along the right side of the luggage compartment according to the Volvo instructions. Place the rectifier/relay/outlet combo behind the panel in front of the right D-column near the stock power outlet and attach it with bundle tie to the cables you find nearby – you don’t want it to drop down to where the terminals may come in contact with the chassis. Branch the plus and minus wires of the stock power outlet and connect it to the relay according to the wiring diagram above. Use a foot or so from the extension cord. Tape the branchers and the wires before and after them. Connect the red cable from the courtesy light to the rectifier (also according to the wiring diagram above). Cut the power plug end of the 12V extension cord. Loop the bare wires in a nice, concealed and non-obstructive way from under the center console between the front seats backwards towards the trunk. This is swift and easy with the panels removed. Connect its plus and minus wires to the relay (same terminals as the extra power outlet with the rectifier/relay/outlet combo). Re-mount the panels according to the Volvo instructions. Reconnect the battery (which is a reverse procedure of what you did before) and reset the clock in the car.

The added power outlet controlled by the relay can be used to power a 12V wireless 4G/LTE router. By placing the 4G/LTE modem behind the panel on the left D-column and wiring the USB-cable through the spare tire well to behind the panel on the right D-column, the 4G/LTE antenna will not interfere with the WLAN antenna. The modem and the router need about two minutes to boot up, but the rest of the time there is 80MBit/s WLAN in the car. I chose a Dovado Tiny router with the accessory 12V cable, as it works a vast range of both 3G and 4G modems, is fast and easy to set up and configure. Its config includes controlling the PIN of the SIM in the modem so even if the modem gets stolen it is still protected by the PIN until you notice and can have the operator block it. Both the router and the modem are easily accessible through the removable side panels of the XC70.



In this installation everything looks stock and almost everything can be reversed to original, but if you for instance use your 4G/LTE modem with other devices and/or in other areas than in your car you may want to consider an USB outlet in the panel instead (i.e. just sticking the modem into the USB outlet whenever you travel with the car). Maybe a power switch and an indicator LED for the router to go with that?

Waiver. This guide has been prepared for and verified with the Volvo XC70 MY13 and is likely (but not guaranteed) to be applicable to the same model from MY08. Understand that tampering with the electric system may void the warranty of the car. Do not perform these steps if you do not fully understand the setup, the wiring and the implications. The text in this guide has been prepared with uttermost care but is, despite of that, to be regarded strictly as a guide to be used in conjunction with normal and cautious vehicle shop practice, including the safe operation of electric equipment. I cannot accept liability for your actions. Work smart! Work safely!

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by on Mar.01, 2013, under Photography


Canon EOS RebelT2i • 200mm • 1/25s @ f/5,7 • ISO 3200 • March 1st, 2013 @ N60°20’09.88″, E16°25’27.50″ (136m)

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by on Jan.31, 2013, under Photography


Canon EOS RebelT2i • 50mm • 1/500s @ f/13 • ISO 100 • January 31st, 2013 @ N62°24’52.13″, E13°59’29.03″ (950m)

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by on Jan.29, 2013, under Family


Sara hitting the slopes at sunset, just before 4pm.
At Björnrike: N 62°25’23”, E 13°57’15”.

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Tales you may have heard before

by on Jan.23, 2013, under What I'm reading


This short story format collection of stories told by seasoned teacher Juan Mateo aspires on teaching you a thing or two you may find helpful in your professional career on subjects such as teamwork, creativity and leadership. What strikes me as odd is the author’s ability (or creativity?) to draw the conclusion he does from the stories he tells. This may be a cultural thing, but there obviously is nothing wrong with Mr Mateo’s imagination and its ability to tweak these stories’ morale (some of them are legend and you have probably heard atleast one or two before, be it in another context) into something different than what the reader may conclude. I found myself drawing completely different conclusions on a number of these stories… Inspiration for professional success? Yes! Lessons for professional success? No!

Tales My Boss Never Told Me – Lessons And Inspiration For Professional Success by Juan Mateo (2011). Pan Books. ISBN 1907794026.

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Shit his dad says

by on Jan.18, 2013, under What I'm reading


When brilliant and to the spot analysis of everyday life gets shoot-beer-out-of-your-nose-funny (and slightly rude). Most of the time, his dad is absolutely right but should maybe try and get a refund on that charm class. Meet the real man behind the Twitter quotes of @sh*tmydadsays. Hundreds of thousands of followers can’t be wrong. Read what you’re missing…

Sh*t My Dad Says by Justin Halpern (2011). Pan Books. ISBN 0330533452.

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by on Jan.08, 2013, under Volvo Amazon


New old stock (NOS) kallas nya och oanvända originaldelar som inte längre säljs av tillverkaren och/eller avser delar till bilar som inte längre är i produktion. Så att få tag på en helt oanvänd originaldel till min Amazon som man letat länge efter är lite som julafton. Här handlade det om det svårt nödvändiga tillbehöret askkoppsbelysning, till för att fästas ovan den på instrumentpanelen utdragbara askkoppen i syfte att förhindra att cigaretten bränner hål på instrumentpanelens stoppning när man askar. Rökning och bilkörning hade uppenbarligen en helt annan relation på 1960-talet jämfört med idag. 21:70 kostade den ny. Tack Kalle!

Klicka här för elschema.

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Season Greetings!

by on Dec.04, 2012, under Family


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Köttbullar och makaroner

by on Dec.02, 2012, under Grill

Köttbullar och makaroner utgör själva grundbulten i den matkultur många av oss har växt upp med. Här i en något mer kosher utgåva. Prova! Du blir inte besviken.


  • 800 g benfri högrev
  • 800 g mogna tomater
  • 200 g parmesanost
  • Olivolja
  • 3 stora vitlöksklyftor
  • 3 msk tomatpuré
  • 3 msk bladpersilja (en kruka)
  • 3 msk basilika (en kruka)
  • Salt och peppar
  • Pasta sedani

Gör så här:
Kör alla tomater utom två släta i en blender. Tärna de sista två. Pressa vitlöksklyftorna över lite upphettad olivolja i ett järn och tillsätt tomatpurén. Häll över tomaterna tillsammans med finhackad basilika. Salta och peppra. Låt sjuda under lock i två timmar (tillsätt vatten om såsen blir för tjock). Finmal köttet två gånger i en köttkvarn. Slå på lite olivolja och ganska bra med nymalen svartpeppar. Riv osten och blanda hälften med köttet tillsammans med finhackad bladpersilja. Rulla åtta köttbullar av färsen och bryn dessa runtom i lite olivolja i ett (annat) järn. Lägg dem i tomatsåsen den sista halvtimmen av dennas koktid, fortfarande under lock. Koka pastan al dente. Servera med den andra hälften riven parmesan och rött vin, varför inte en schysst zinfandel.

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240-fläkt i Volvo Amazon

by on Nov.04, 2012, under Volvo Amazon

This text is unfortunately not available as PDF download in English. Denna text finns tyvärr inte som PDF.

240-fläkt i Volvo Amazon

Kupéfläkten i Volvo Amazon är underdimensionerad, går lätt sönder, går ofta inte att laga och är dessutom svår att få tag på. Ett bra, eller mycket bra, alternativ är att ersätta den med en kupéfläkt avsedd för Volvos 240-serie. De finns att köpa nya för c:a 750kr. Den här anvisningen beskriver hur man byter till 240-fläkt i Volvo Amazon på ett diskret och fint sätt. För att byta fläkt behöver du, förutom den nya fläkten, även ett bulligt lock från en tidig Amazon. Lacka det mattsvart i en färg som tål lite värme.

Börja med att koppla bort batteriet. Lossa sedan de tre kablarna till kupéfläkten i motorrummet. Håll ordning på vilken kabel som är vilken genom att exempelvis märka upp dem med en tejpbit. Lossa skruvarna som håller fläkten på plats och dra försiktigt ut den ur värmarenheten. Dela på det platta locket och själva fläkten och fäst sedan detta lock på motsvarande sätt i 240-fläkten genom att borra hål i 240-fläkten. Det nya, bulliga locket används sedan som täcklock (som av en händelse passar skruvhålen mot värmarenheten perfekt mellan locken).

Alla anslutningar görs mellan locken, det platta som originalfläkten satt fäst i och det bulliga som nu används som täcklock. Detta skyddar anslutningarna som på 240-fläkten är lösa istället för fasta som på originalfläkten samtidigt som det ser näst intill original ut.

Sätt eltejp runt anslutningarna eftersom det annars är stor risk för kortis när locket sätts på plats.

En viktig skillnad mellan gammal och ny fläkt är att den gamla har två lägen medan den nya har tre. Det finns lite olika sätt att lösa det på där det vanligaste verkar vara att man behåller befintligt fläktreglage och kopplar in de två högsta farterna/lägena på den nya fläkten och låter den lägsta vara oansluten. Annars får man försöka hitta ett annat reglage. Notera att Amazonens reglage för vindrutetork och -spolare visserligen har tre lägen men att detta inte nödvändigtvis fungerar tillsammans med den nya fläkten då det ju även spelar roll hur kopplingen ser ut inne i reglaget. Möjligen funkar just denna kombo – jag har inte provat.

Om man vill använder befintligt Amazonreglage med fart 2 och 3 på 240-fläkten så kommer från 240-fläkten en svart jordkabel och den kopplas mot den svarta jordkabeln som gick till den gamla fläkten. Blå kabel från 240-fläkten (fart 2) till blå kabel som gick till den gamla fläkten och röd kabel från 240-fläkten (fart 3) till svart kabel som gick till den gamla fläkten. Grön kabel (fart 1) används ej. Allt funkar nu precis som innan (fullt blås först, halvt blås sen) på reglaget fast mycket bättre snurr i sakerna.

Ansvarsbefrielse. Texten i denna anvisning har förberetts med största noggrannhet men är, trots det, i strikt mening endast att betrakta som en guide att användas i god samverkan med normala säkerhetsföreskrifter gällande vid arbete med elektrisk apparatur och verktyg i en fordonsteknisk miljö. Jag tar inte ansvar för dina handlingar. Arbeta smart! Arbeta säkert!

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